Tamale Tradition: Why the dish is a holiday staple

Tuesday, December 24, 2024 8:43AM PT
FRESNO, Calif. -- It's the week of Christmas, which means it's tamale time for many families preparing to celebrate the holiday.

Action News dived into the rich history of the Christmas staple and how that history comes alive every December.

"It's one of our strongest connections to our indigenous roots, our indigenous siblings," said Dr. Luis Fernando Macias, a Chicano Studies professor at Fresno State.

He says evidence shows evidence of tamales being used in sacred rituals throughout what's now Latin America since 8,000 B.C.

Those traditions live on today.



"I remember making tamales at the holidays from as far back as I can remember," said Action News Anchor Graciela Moreno.

"It's a tradition that I value and cherish and I'm thankful I know how to do it and maybe one day I'll pass it to my family," added news producer Alysia Wiebe.

"Some of my best family memories were making them as a kid, literally all of the family would get together to make these tamales," said promotions producer Phil Torres.

It takes a village to make them and they're meant to be shared, just ask our assignment editor Ana Vargas' mom.

"It was like a team effort and she does make a lot because her friends and people she knew would want some too," said Ana.



Tamales come in all kinds of flavors but typically include masa wrapped around meat, cheese and other innovative ingredients.

Some families, including mine, put an olive or two in the tamal.

The olive can represent baby Jesus and good luck.

"We put one olive in it. I like an olive in a tamale, I feel like it's a little prize just waiting for you," said Action News Anchor Jessica Harrington.

Everyone believes their family makes the best tamales and it's possible they're all correct.



"Your families make the best tamales. And in part, it's because of its connection to the community, the family, the connection to the gathering," said Dr. Macias.

The recipes are rarely written down and always treasured family secrets.

"It's visual. Un tantito esto, un tantito esta, so we never really have all the measurements. We would watch her," said Aurora Gomez, Executive Producer of Community Affairs.

The particular flavor to it, the particular process is family's DNA. That tamal will hold the family's DNA," said Dr. Macias.

This Nochebuena, or Christmas Eve, take a moment to reflect on what tamales mean to your family.



After all, that tamael represents 10,000 years of rich culture and your version of it holds generations of your family's history.

If tamales aren't a part of your family's tradition, but you'd like to make it one, Alysia's family has graciously decided their Nana's recipe with all those who want to learn.

Nana's Tamales
2:1 masa to meat, 1 ancho to 1 lb meat
Yield: 21 dozen pork, 4.5 dozen bean

35 lbs masa preprepared is best
15 lbs. pork butt (shoulder)
4 bags of 7 1/2 oz.Chili ANCHO (pasilla) 12 oz. dried black chili pods
Yields 8 cups Anaheim chili is alternate
(New Mexico and guajillo chilis are hotter)
Garlic 1/2 head for meat
Salt 1/2 cup for Meat

PORK
1) Cut meat into quarters, boil meat, garlic, and salt. High to boil then simmer on medium for 2 1/2 to 3 hours.
2) When cool shred into fine threads. Save the broth. This can be done on day 1, if refrigerate can skim off fat from broth.

RED CHILI SAUCE
1) Remove the stems, seeds and veins from the dried chili pods. Use latex gloves and do not rub eyes, if no gloves rub hands with olive oil.
2) Toast the chili pods on a dry pan for approx 30 sec. do not burn or will be bitter. or in oven 400' for 1-2 min.
3) Cook the chili with 5 cloves of pealed garlic cloves, 2 tablespoon salt, (half an onion), boil for 15 min and then let seep for 15 min or until chilis are plump.
4) Place in blender and add liquid til consistence of peanut butter. taste the soaking liquid if bitter do not use, use water or chicken stock instead.
5) Place in colander and using a spatula get rid of stems, seeds or chili skins. you want a smooth paste. Alternative use food mill with the medium sieve.
This red chili is used for the meat and the masa. If do this on Day 1 store in glass jar since plastic will get stained.

COOKING MEAT WITH SAUCE
Cook the meat in a large skillet for 15 min simmer with 1/4 cup of lard
1 1/2 teaspoon of ground cumin
1 1/2 cup of the prepared red chili sauce
1 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper
1 cup of meat broth
2 tablespoon of salt
3 cloves of minced cloves of garlic
This can then be refrigerated if Day 1 of 2.

Alternate filling: BEANS
1) One bag of beans
4 cloves of garlic keep whole
2 tablespoons of salt
Bring to boil, then simmer for 2 1/2 hours

BEANS FOR TAMALES
8 oz of lard, 1/2 can or 13 oz of jalipeno
2 cups prepared red chili sauce
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Place beans and ingredients into large skillet, mash the beans and simmer for approx. 15 min

CORN HUSKS (Day 1)
Prepare the corn husks best if done on Day 1, Remove all the silks and clean then discard any leaves that are too small or discolored have holes etc.
BEST if 8 inches long and 6 inches wide
Soak in warm water overnight. minimum 30 min so can be pliable.
32 corn husks for every 5 lbs of meat

MASA (Day 2)
35 lbs of masa
baking powder
tub of manteca (lard)
red chili sauce
Start with a very large bowl ( you will never find it in your house so just go to Target)
Start with approx half
15 lbs of masa
6 tablespoons of salt (seems like a lot but will dissolve in the cooking)
2 tablespoons fresh baking powder
3 cups of manteca
2 cups of red chili sauce
3 cups of meat broth
Mix well in mixer is best. Masa should be consistency of peanut butter. To test pat the back of your hand against the masa. If have used enough lard your hand should be shiny. if not add more lard. Alternate: drop 1/2 teaspoon of the masa in to a cup of warm water. If floats it is ready, if it sinks need more lard.

Tamale Assembly (Day 2) - ALL HANDS ON DECK
On each corn husk (approx 8 inches long by 6 inches wide) spread the masa mixture with an offset spatula, spoon or butter knife.
Use approx 2 tablespoons of masa for each tamal and approx 2 tablespoons of meat filling.
Roll and fold.
Place in steamer with opening to the top and the seam against the pot.

COOKING the TAMALES
Make a roll of foil about 5 inches to place in center of the cooking pot. Place the tamales leaning around this foil, seam side down and opening of the tamal up so that the contents do not spill out during steaming. Test the taste of the tamale prior to the whole batch. So can adjust salt etc.
Can microwave one raw tamale wrapped in a damp paper towel for 2 min.
Steam the tamales in your largest stock pot. Add water to the bottom of the steamer.
Should check approx every 15 min to make sure water has not evaporated
Steam for approx 1 hour.
Test: husk should peal away from tamale easily if sticks, continue to steam for approx additional 15 min.
When cooked, turn off heat and let the batch rest for approx 30 min so can firm up.

Can store in freezer for up to 6 months, but they never last that long
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