8 Simple guidelines for updating his wardrobe:
- 1 medium-weight navy or grey suit as a "go to" suit for important meetings, events or occasion.
- 1 versatile navy or neutral sportcoat that can be worn for business casual or dinner.
- 2 slimmer-fitting dress shirts, one striped and one solid. Plus 2 fitted casual button-downs, one simple and one with pattern.
- 2 pair of flat-front wool dress pants, one dark and one neutral.
- 1 pair of flat-front khakis.
- 1 pair of slimmer fitting jeans.
- 2 trimmer sweaters or pullovers: one medium-weight and one light-weight.
- 1 pair of new soft casual loafers or tie-up shoes.
Suit
OLD Look:
An overall bigger fits is the tell-tale sign of a dated suit:
- Shoulders were more constructed, padded and wider.
- Jacket had three buttons, wider lapels and longer length.
- Pans were pleated, baggier, longer and made of notabley more fabric.
- Cuffs were shallower, only about 1 ¼
- Shoes were "chunkier" with wider lasts.
The key features of a new silhouette:
- Lapal is narrower with a higher notch.
- Sleeves on jacket and shirt are slightly shorter.
- Pants are flat-front, more sculpted and slightly shorter.
- Fabrics; pure, natural nanofibers that are lighter in weight and less rigid lend themselves to more fitted garment.
- Jacket is more fitted, with a higher 2-button stance and shorter length.
OLD Look:
- Shirt was baggier in the body, shoulder and sleeve.
- Pants legs were wider with three or more pleats.
- Belt was narrower and buckles, now more often in silver, were gold.
- Cuffs were shallower and pants were longer, breaking at the lower leg.
- Dress shoes were often worn with a casual look.
- Jacket: add a slimmer fitting sport coat for an updated casual look
- Pants: Leg is narrower throughout and slightly shorter with no break and Flat-front is preferred, but if pleated , should have no more than two pleats.
- Shirt fits closer to the body with narrower arms.
OLD look:
Shirt:
- Torso was fuller and wider.
- Sleeves were looser and longer with a larger shoulder.
- Were slouchy, had 5 pockets, wider legs, longer rise and notably more fabric.
- Length was longer with a break.
Shirt:
- Sleeve is narrower and shorter with a more fitted shoulder.
- Torso fits closer to the body and is less boxy.
- Belt is wider and sleeker.
- Taking the lead from dress pant, jeans are slimmer throughout the leg and shorter rise.
- Shoes are more rugged looking and have a softer, comfortable look.
- Shoulders -- Narrower
Shoulders are slimmer, less padded and narrower than yesterday's wide-padded shoulder, leading to a trimmer, more streamlined and slightly shorter arm.
- Button Stance -- 2 Buttons, Higher Stance
Though 3-button jackets are still being made by many top designers, the evolution toward the 2-button jacket continues to take hold. And if you're butting anywhere near the belt buckle, the button stance is too low.
- Jacket Length -- Shorter
Gone are the days when the wide-slung jacket reached the upper and even mid-thigh. Today's jacket barely hits the top of the thigh.
- Pants -- Slimmer
A narrower fit without pleats or with two pleats at most, and a shorter length with no break.
The movement toward more fitted men's clothing is more than a trend. Designed to flatter all body types, the new cleaner silhouette has completely over taken the wider look of the 80's and 90's.
Clothing Featured in Segment:
Casual Look:
- Moncler Urban Pocket Jacket - $795
- Brunello Cucinelli Shadow Stripe Polo Shirt - $470
- Torino Calf Skin Belt - $95
- Brunello Cucinelli Jeans - $395
- Emerngildo Zegna Shadow Plain Wool Sportcoat - $1,995
- Brioni Cotton Stripe Shirt - $595
- Emerngildo Zegna Tie - $170
- Brioni Cotton and Linen Pocket Square - $75
- Incotex Tropical Wool Trouser - $395
- Kiton Cashmere Linen and Silk Check Sportcoat - $5,595
- Kiton Cotton Stripe Shirt - $520
- Emerngildo Zegna Stripe Tie - $170
- Brunello Cucinelli Cotton and Linen Jean - $405
- Simonnoi-Godard Cotton Linen Pocket Square - $65
- Belvest Linen Blend Jacket in Plum - $995
- Wilkes Bashford Check Cotton Shirt in Cotton - $195
- Brioni Cotton / Linen Jean - $395
- Crocodile Belt - $485
- G, Inglese Cotton Check Pocket Square - $60
- Pantherella Plum Socks in Wool - $28
>> Website
Locations:
375 Sutter Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
Phone: 415.986.4380
450 Stanford Shopping Center
Palo Alto, CA 94304
Phone: 650.322.7080
